punisher
I have a, sort of dull but not really, shag carpet. with newly painted mid-dark grey walls, some cabinets that i dont know what color to paint, it has a black ceiling.
Still need an HD projector that i can hook up an xbox to through an HMDI cable
A color to paint the cabinets
new Lighting
a color for the couches (currently white) im going to get some couch covers
Need a speaker system
If u can think of other cheap things to do to this room add it in your answer
Thanks guys this will help a lot
Answer
The key with colors is to keep it non reflective. Darker colors work well but you don't want to turn your room into a cave either. I used a medium gray on the upper portion above the chair rails for my walls using Ralph Lauren River Rock paint... http://www.ralphlaurenhome.com/products/paint/finishes/items.aspx?haid=75 This paint has a slight texture to it that helps diffract reflected light. It worked out perfectly on my walls because the gray I chose was light enough to prevent the room from seeming like a dark cave and yet created no reflection problems. You may want to paint your cabinets using that paint. Also, don't put things like movie posters on the walls of the theatre. If you have a lobby area at the entry of your theatre then that's the place to put that stuff. Especially glass covered posters on the walls of the theatre itself is a disaster, the reflections make for a serious distraction.
For a projector I personally like JVC but there are a lot of nice projectors out there these days that are 1080p and work great. You may want to consider making your screen aspect ration 2.4:1 as opposed to 16:9 so you can avoid the black bars top and bottom. Most movies these days are in either 2.35:1 or 2.4:1. The ideal way to do this is to use video scaling and an anamorphic lens placed in front of the projector. The newer JVC projectors have the video scaling built in to do the vertical stretch. What happens is that a 2.4:1 movie will not use the entire 16:9 imaging device inside the projector. There are black bars on the imaging device even if you adjust your zoom so there are none on the screen. You're only using around 800 of the 1080 p lines. The video scaling vertically stretches the image to fill the imaging device. On the screen everyone appears tall and skinny so you place the anamorphic lens in front of the projector and it stretches the image horizontally restoring the proper aspect ratio. You're now using your entire imaging device meaning you don't lose any light capacity. This is called a "CIH" system or Constant Image Height. I use a Prismasonic Lens... http://www.prismasonic.com/english/compatibility.shtml These have the advantage of being adjustable.
I can't help you much on recommending commercially available speakers because I personally think most all of them suck. Many here will recommend the typical mass market brands like Polk and Klipsch and perhaps these are good enough for you but I've spent nearly 40 years designing and building my own and personally find those brands along with most far more expensive brands to be sub par. In the near future Parts Express will be marketing a Ground Plain CBT Line Array kit that will be ideal for home theatre... http://www.parts-express.com/cbt36/index.cfm?&utm_source=Catalog&utm_medium=Print&utm_content=DON+KEELE+CATALOG&utm_campaign=Catalog_2011 These should work quite well once they are available. Of course you have to build them.
As for a subwoofer it you have the space a multiple large driver Infinite Baffle system will far outperform the most expensive conventional box subwoofers. Personally I use open baffle dipole subwoofers and if you have the space for those they are even better to a point. Below the lowest room mode dipole roll off rapidly and the cone excursion requirements go through the roof. Based on your room modes you would want to crossover to an IB at some point. My room and subs are large enough to push it flat down to about 13 Hz but if and when I get an IB system completed I'll cross over at around 18 Hz with the IB covering from single digits to 18.
You may want to consider a DIY screen. You can buy screen material here... http://store.cousinsvideo.com/cut-to-size.html I'm using a 1.3 gain material but yours may be different based on your projector, viewing angle, and ambient lighting.
A good resource is the AVS forum theater build thread... http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/forumdisplay.php?s=&daysprune=60&f=19 You can see a lot of examples there plus gain the knowledge of the regulars on the forum.
My own web site is here... http://mfk-projects.com/home_theatre.htm I do not market anything but you may use any of my ideas/designs etc.
Good luck with your build and have fun!
mk
The key with colors is to keep it non reflective. Darker colors work well but you don't want to turn your room into a cave either. I used a medium gray on the upper portion above the chair rails for my walls using Ralph Lauren River Rock paint... http://www.ralphlaurenhome.com/products/paint/finishes/items.aspx?haid=75 This paint has a slight texture to it that helps diffract reflected light. It worked out perfectly on my walls because the gray I chose was light enough to prevent the room from seeming like a dark cave and yet created no reflection problems. You may want to paint your cabinets using that paint. Also, don't put things like movie posters on the walls of the theatre. If you have a lobby area at the entry of your theatre then that's the place to put that stuff. Especially glass covered posters on the walls of the theatre itself is a disaster, the reflections make for a serious distraction.
For a projector I personally like JVC but there are a lot of nice projectors out there these days that are 1080p and work great. You may want to consider making your screen aspect ration 2.4:1 as opposed to 16:9 so you can avoid the black bars top and bottom. Most movies these days are in either 2.35:1 or 2.4:1. The ideal way to do this is to use video scaling and an anamorphic lens placed in front of the projector. The newer JVC projectors have the video scaling built in to do the vertical stretch. What happens is that a 2.4:1 movie will not use the entire 16:9 imaging device inside the projector. There are black bars on the imaging device even if you adjust your zoom so there are none on the screen. You're only using around 800 of the 1080 p lines. The video scaling vertically stretches the image to fill the imaging device. On the screen everyone appears tall and skinny so you place the anamorphic lens in front of the projector and it stretches the image horizontally restoring the proper aspect ratio. You're now using your entire imaging device meaning you don't lose any light capacity. This is called a "CIH" system or Constant Image Height. I use a Prismasonic Lens... http://www.prismasonic.com/english/compatibility.shtml These have the advantage of being adjustable.
I can't help you much on recommending commercially available speakers because I personally think most all of them suck. Many here will recommend the typical mass market brands like Polk and Klipsch and perhaps these are good enough for you but I've spent nearly 40 years designing and building my own and personally find those brands along with most far more expensive brands to be sub par. In the near future Parts Express will be marketing a Ground Plain CBT Line Array kit that will be ideal for home theatre... http://www.parts-express.com/cbt36/index.cfm?&utm_source=Catalog&utm_medium=Print&utm_content=DON+KEELE+CATALOG&utm_campaign=Catalog_2011 These should work quite well once they are available. Of course you have to build them.
As for a subwoofer it you have the space a multiple large driver Infinite Baffle system will far outperform the most expensive conventional box subwoofers. Personally I use open baffle dipole subwoofers and if you have the space for those they are even better to a point. Below the lowest room mode dipole roll off rapidly and the cone excursion requirements go through the roof. Based on your room modes you would want to crossover to an IB at some point. My room and subs are large enough to push it flat down to about 13 Hz but if and when I get an IB system completed I'll cross over at around 18 Hz with the IB covering from single digits to 18.
You may want to consider a DIY screen. You can buy screen material here... http://store.cousinsvideo.com/cut-to-size.html I'm using a 1.3 gain material but yours may be different based on your projector, viewing angle, and ambient lighting.
A good resource is the AVS forum theater build thread... http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/forumdisplay.php?s=&daysprune=60&f=19 You can see a lot of examples there plus gain the knowledge of the regulars on the forum.
My own web site is here... http://mfk-projects.com/home_theatre.htm I do not market anything but you may use any of my ideas/designs etc.
Good luck with your build and have fun!
mk
Home Theater?
Eric James
I just bought a new home and it has an office in the basement that I would like to convert to a home theater of sorts. The size is 16'8 x 15'. First of all can I do it with a room this size? If so what are some good websites or dealers to look up? I'm clueless so I need all the help I can get!
Furniture is taken care of. I just need to ideas for projectors, screens and surround sound.
I don't have a defined budget but I know I don't want to spend more then $5K.
Answer
Here's some things I would look at when putting something like that together:
TV type and screen size -
Since you're putting this home theater together in a basement, I'll assume low lighting, even during the day. So, you can go with either a plasma or LCD (or DLP, for that matter). If it were a bright room that gets lots of ambient light, I would recommend against the plasma, because it has a glossy screen and would reflect too much glare.
As far as screen size, there's a formula for what's called optimum viewing angle. Basically, this means that there is an optimum viewing distance for a given widescreen TV size and, conversely, an optimum TV screen size for a given viewing distance. The rule of thumb is this: For a 40-inch screen, you should watch it from about 10 feet. For a 50-inch screen, you should watch it from about 20 feet. So, depending on how far back your furniture is from the TV, you're looking at about a 42- to 46-inch screen. And, a projector would probably be overkill in a room that small.
Surround sound -
Do you want 5.1 sound, 6.1, or 7.1? The ".1" is the subwoofer in all of these formats. For 5.1, you have left and right front speakers, a front center speaker, and left and right rear speakers. For 6.1, add a rear center channel. For 7.1, you have L/R front, front center, L/R side, and L/R rear.
Personally, I think 6.1 and 7.1 are overkill. I have 5.1 and it sounds great. 6.1 and 7.1 alxo will incur more cost for the speakers (the receivers are more expensive, too. Plus, I have enough issues with running the rear speaker wires for one pair of surround speakers with the 5.1.
Speakers -
I always recommend Klipsch speakers. There are a couple of sites on eBay that are authorized Klipsch dealers. They offer the Klipsch Quintet plus powered subwoofer (SW-10 or SW-12) for about $500 and $600, respectively (plus shipping, no tax). I have the Quintets and the SW-12 running off a basic Yamaha 5.1 surround sound receiver. They sound great and would really fill up the room in your home theater. The subwoofer has a variable output adjustment, a variable cutoff frequency (60 Hz to 140 Hz), and an output phase control (0 to 180 degrees). So, it can be tuned to match your exact speaker setup and room accoustics.
Also, consider that you have to run speaker wire to the rear surrounds. Since you're building the theater, I'm assuming you can do a bit of remodeling. If possible, run the speaker wires for the rear speakers through the ceiling and down to a jack where the speakers will be placed. Use thick, stranded speaker wire (12 gauge).
Lighting -
I recommend recessed or track lighting on a dimmer (think of how movie theaters look). Track lighting is nice, because you can get individual spots and point them at the wall for an indirect lighting effect. You might also consider cove lighting, where you build about an 8-inch cove in the ceiling and hide lights inside it, firing upward at the ceiling. You could combine the halogen spot track lights with fluorescent cove lighting for a great effect.
Also, paint the walls a relatively dark color. This minimizes the amount of reflection and glare you'll get while watching the TV.
There are many more considerations for a home theater. But, that should get you started.
Here's some things I would look at when putting something like that together:
TV type and screen size -
Since you're putting this home theater together in a basement, I'll assume low lighting, even during the day. So, you can go with either a plasma or LCD (or DLP, for that matter). If it were a bright room that gets lots of ambient light, I would recommend against the plasma, because it has a glossy screen and would reflect too much glare.
As far as screen size, there's a formula for what's called optimum viewing angle. Basically, this means that there is an optimum viewing distance for a given widescreen TV size and, conversely, an optimum TV screen size for a given viewing distance. The rule of thumb is this: For a 40-inch screen, you should watch it from about 10 feet. For a 50-inch screen, you should watch it from about 20 feet. So, depending on how far back your furniture is from the TV, you're looking at about a 42- to 46-inch screen. And, a projector would probably be overkill in a room that small.
Surround sound -
Do you want 5.1 sound, 6.1, or 7.1? The ".1" is the subwoofer in all of these formats. For 5.1, you have left and right front speakers, a front center speaker, and left and right rear speakers. For 6.1, add a rear center channel. For 7.1, you have L/R front, front center, L/R side, and L/R rear.
Personally, I think 6.1 and 7.1 are overkill. I have 5.1 and it sounds great. 6.1 and 7.1 alxo will incur more cost for the speakers (the receivers are more expensive, too. Plus, I have enough issues with running the rear speaker wires for one pair of surround speakers with the 5.1.
Speakers -
I always recommend Klipsch speakers. There are a couple of sites on eBay that are authorized Klipsch dealers. They offer the Klipsch Quintet plus powered subwoofer (SW-10 or SW-12) for about $500 and $600, respectively (plus shipping, no tax). I have the Quintets and the SW-12 running off a basic Yamaha 5.1 surround sound receiver. They sound great and would really fill up the room in your home theater. The subwoofer has a variable output adjustment, a variable cutoff frequency (60 Hz to 140 Hz), and an output phase control (0 to 180 degrees). So, it can be tuned to match your exact speaker setup and room accoustics.
Also, consider that you have to run speaker wire to the rear surrounds. Since you're building the theater, I'm assuming you can do a bit of remodeling. If possible, run the speaker wires for the rear speakers through the ceiling and down to a jack where the speakers will be placed. Use thick, stranded speaker wire (12 gauge).
Lighting -
I recommend recessed or track lighting on a dimmer (think of how movie theaters look). Track lighting is nice, because you can get individual spots and point them at the wall for an indirect lighting effect. You might also consider cove lighting, where you build about an 8-inch cove in the ceiling and hide lights inside it, firing upward at the ceiling. You could combine the halogen spot track lights with fluorescent cove lighting for a great effect.
Also, paint the walls a relatively dark color. This minimizes the amount of reflection and glare you'll get while watching the TV.
There are many more considerations for a home theater. But, that should get you started.
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