kakountry
The room is in the basement but, I may have the lights on sometimes..
Answer
It is difficult to recommend a specific model without more idea of price range, details of the location where it will be used, and viewing preferences, here are some specs. to look for.
The primary requirement is a brighter projector than one designed exclusively for home theatre use ... say 2000-2500 lumens.
Most do have it, but you should also ensure there is a low light setting for when you would use in the dark ... this extends lamp life.
Depending on the priority you place on home theatre use under controlled (i.e. none) light conditions "contrast ratio" may be more or less important. For use in a lighted room anything over 1000:1 would be fine, but if you wish to use as a home theatre projector look for at least 2000:1 (higher is better).
There are many other specs to consider. The most important is "resolution" -- the number of pixels that make up the image -- if you don't intend to watch HDTV you could get by with a 480 x 854 (vertical x horizontal resolution) projector, but otherwise you should look for at least a 720 x 1280 model. If money is not an object consider a true HD projector (1080 x 1920) ... although note that all I am aware of under $20K or so are lower brightness projectors than you need.
Another important consideration is "aspect ratio". These days most recommendations will be for a 16:9 (widescreen) projector; and this is valid if you intend to watch mainly HDTV (e.g. sports) and widescreen movies. However, if you intend to watch old movies (4:3 aspect ratio) consider that 4:3 as a subset of a 16:9 image (there will be black bars on each side) makes for a small picture. If you note that even on a 16:9 (1.78:1) screen wider aspect ratio movies (1.85:1 to 2.40:1) will have black bars on the top and bottom, black bars will be a fact of life. So consider that a 4:3 aspect ratio projector will provide a huge picture for 4:3 material and widescreen will show as a subset the full width of the 4:3 screen but with variable amounts of black bar above and below. (Put simply a 4:3 image on a 16:9 screen is small, while 16:9 (and wider) and 4:3 images on a 4:3 display are all large). Worth considering.
Other specs to consider:
- "fan noise" (anything under 32 db should be OK in a bar room, but for quiet viewing look for something under 28 db)
- "lens zoom ratio" (at least 1.3:1, but 1.5:1 or more provides greater flexibility)
- "weight" and "size" (something in the 8-12 lb level would be good, but unless space is a big issue this isn't a major consideration)
- If a DLP (digital light processor) based projector the "color wheel rotation speed" should be at least 4X, and preferably 5 or more). If an LCD this is not relevant.
- The availability of "lens shift" (ability to shift the picture vertically (or horizontally) relative to the position of the projector) is desirable to make mounting easier. ("Keystone" adjustment may be provided but should be avoided since it degrades the picture).
- cooling air filtration: THIS IS PARTICULARLY IMPORTANT IF THE PROJECTOR WILL BE USED IN A SMOKING ENVIRONMENT. All projectors use a fan to push air past the bulb to cool it. Most have a removable/replaceable air filter. A few have a sealed system. If everything else meets your needs, a sealed system is a desirable feature. Failing that look for an easily accessible filter (e.g. you don't have to remove the projector from a ceiling mount to get at it).
OK ... how about a few possibilities (not intended to imply there are not other good choices, particulalrly if you settle for less brightness):
$1000 range: Sharp XR-10
$2-3000: Panasonic PTAX100U (16:9)
$3-5000: Canon SX-60 (4:3)
I personally have the Canon SX-60 and while you can get a less expensive projector it would work well for your purpose.
It is difficult to recommend a specific model without more idea of price range, details of the location where it will be used, and viewing preferences, here are some specs. to look for.
The primary requirement is a brighter projector than one designed exclusively for home theatre use ... say 2000-2500 lumens.
Most do have it, but you should also ensure there is a low light setting for when you would use in the dark ... this extends lamp life.
Depending on the priority you place on home theatre use under controlled (i.e. none) light conditions "contrast ratio" may be more or less important. For use in a lighted room anything over 1000:1 would be fine, but if you wish to use as a home theatre projector look for at least 2000:1 (higher is better).
There are many other specs to consider. The most important is "resolution" -- the number of pixels that make up the image -- if you don't intend to watch HDTV you could get by with a 480 x 854 (vertical x horizontal resolution) projector, but otherwise you should look for at least a 720 x 1280 model. If money is not an object consider a true HD projector (1080 x 1920) ... although note that all I am aware of under $20K or so are lower brightness projectors than you need.
Another important consideration is "aspect ratio". These days most recommendations will be for a 16:9 (widescreen) projector; and this is valid if you intend to watch mainly HDTV (e.g. sports) and widescreen movies. However, if you intend to watch old movies (4:3 aspect ratio) consider that 4:3 as a subset of a 16:9 image (there will be black bars on each side) makes for a small picture. If you note that even on a 16:9 (1.78:1) screen wider aspect ratio movies (1.85:1 to 2.40:1) will have black bars on the top and bottom, black bars will be a fact of life. So consider that a 4:3 aspect ratio projector will provide a huge picture for 4:3 material and widescreen will show as a subset the full width of the 4:3 screen but with variable amounts of black bar above and below. (Put simply a 4:3 image on a 16:9 screen is small, while 16:9 (and wider) and 4:3 images on a 4:3 display are all large). Worth considering.
Other specs to consider:
- "fan noise" (anything under 32 db should be OK in a bar room, but for quiet viewing look for something under 28 db)
- "lens zoom ratio" (at least 1.3:1, but 1.5:1 or more provides greater flexibility)
- "weight" and "size" (something in the 8-12 lb level would be good, but unless space is a big issue this isn't a major consideration)
- If a DLP (digital light processor) based projector the "color wheel rotation speed" should be at least 4X, and preferably 5 or more). If an LCD this is not relevant.
- The availability of "lens shift" (ability to shift the picture vertically (or horizontally) relative to the position of the projector) is desirable to make mounting easier. ("Keystone" adjustment may be provided but should be avoided since it degrades the picture).
- cooling air filtration: THIS IS PARTICULARLY IMPORTANT IF THE PROJECTOR WILL BE USED IN A SMOKING ENVIRONMENT. All projectors use a fan to push air past the bulb to cool it. Most have a removable/replaceable air filter. A few have a sealed system. If everything else meets your needs, a sealed system is a desirable feature. Failing that look for an easily accessible filter (e.g. you don't have to remove the projector from a ceiling mount to get at it).
OK ... how about a few possibilities (not intended to imply there are not other good choices, particulalrly if you settle for less brightness):
$1000 range: Sharp XR-10
$2-3000: Panasonic PTAX100U (16:9)
$3-5000: Canon SX-60 (4:3)
I personally have the Canon SX-60 and while you can get a less expensive projector it would work well for your purpose.
Home Theater Sound Proofing?
Paul H
We are in the process of building a new home and it will include a "theater" room. I'm trying to figure out the best and most economical way to sound-proof the room, as it will be in the basement, below our bedroom. I've considered accoustical drop ceiling tiles, staggered 2X4 walls for the interior walls, leaving a 1" gap between the foundation wall and 2X4 wall and of course using insulation. What would be the best insulation to use and are there any other ideas I should consider? I'm already pushing the wallet on the home itself so I need some economical solutions.
Answer
It depends how you define sound proofing. The other answers will help with midrange and treble, but do almost nothing for bass ... the real issue in my view.
I faced this same issue when I built a home theatre in my basement and I read a lot and came to understand several key points:
- bass is only controlled by a combination of mass (read heavy material like doube drywall) and damping/decoupling (preventing the vibrations from travelling through a wall or ceiling/floor to the other side;
- the room must be sealed (except for air ducts which must be baffled) to prevent treble from getting through;
- sound-proofing efforts frequently fail due to either small openings left unplugged (treble) or "coupling" between surfaces by wrongly placed nails or screws ... so careful construction is essential.
I came across a product that, while not exactly cheap, works very well to decouple sound transmission. The so called Resilient Sound Isolation Clips (RSIC, See link for pictures, etc). They hold metal furring channels to which one (or for greater sound reduction two) layers of drywall are attached. They introduce an elastomer between the drywall and underlying structural member (e.g. stud, joist) and when combined with insulation in the cavity and a non-drying elastomeric caulking around edges of the drywall provide very effective "sound proofing" by decoupling the inner and outer surface and damping resonation in the cavity bewteen
I used them in the ceiling (with one layer of 1/2" drywall), but chose to use staggered studs (with the interior filled with heavyweight fiberglass insulation designed for sound applications) for the walls. I chose this approach because it gives equivalent resulys but is less expensive than RSICs since I was doing the work myself. (Note: If I had contracted it I would have specified RSICs for walls and ceiling since the RSICs lower labour costs). I also chose to use a prehung exterior door for the HT (there is a guest bedroom next door) itself since provides much better sound baffling
I'm quite satisfied with the results ... despite my use of only a single layer of drywall and no special efforts to baffle ductwork. Even when the sound is quite loud in the theatre it is not annoying upstairs or in the bedroom next door, and most important to me bass is well controlled.
Check out the specs and ratings for various construction options using RSICs on their website. They provide a wealth of useful information.
One final note, RSICs would also be a good choice for retrofitting an existing wall / room since they would obviate the need to pull existing walls apart.
Hope this helps.
Source(s):
http://www.pac-intl.com/
It depends how you define sound proofing. The other answers will help with midrange and treble, but do almost nothing for bass ... the real issue in my view.
I faced this same issue when I built a home theatre in my basement and I read a lot and came to understand several key points:
- bass is only controlled by a combination of mass (read heavy material like doube drywall) and damping/decoupling (preventing the vibrations from travelling through a wall or ceiling/floor to the other side;
- the room must be sealed (except for air ducts which must be baffled) to prevent treble from getting through;
- sound-proofing efforts frequently fail due to either small openings left unplugged (treble) or "coupling" between surfaces by wrongly placed nails or screws ... so careful construction is essential.
I came across a product that, while not exactly cheap, works very well to decouple sound transmission. The so called Resilient Sound Isolation Clips (RSIC, See link for pictures, etc). They hold metal furring channels to which one (or for greater sound reduction two) layers of drywall are attached. They introduce an elastomer between the drywall and underlying structural member (e.g. stud, joist) and when combined with insulation in the cavity and a non-drying elastomeric caulking around edges of the drywall provide very effective "sound proofing" by decoupling the inner and outer surface and damping resonation in the cavity bewteen
I used them in the ceiling (with one layer of 1/2" drywall), but chose to use staggered studs (with the interior filled with heavyweight fiberglass insulation designed for sound applications) for the walls. I chose this approach because it gives equivalent resulys but is less expensive than RSICs since I was doing the work myself. (Note: If I had contracted it I would have specified RSICs for walls and ceiling since the RSICs lower labour costs). I also chose to use a prehung exterior door for the HT (there is a guest bedroom next door) itself since provides much better sound baffling
I'm quite satisfied with the results ... despite my use of only a single layer of drywall and no special efforts to baffle ductwork. Even when the sound is quite loud in the theatre it is not annoying upstairs or in the bedroom next door, and most important to me bass is well controlled.
Check out the specs and ratings for various construction options using RSICs on their website. They provide a wealth of useful information.
One final note, RSICs would also be a good choice for retrofitting an existing wall / room since they would obviate the need to pull existing walls apart.
Hope this helps.
Source(s):
http://www.pac-intl.com/
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