NNZ1991
I am going to design a theater for the house we just bought but and having a little trouble deciding. I was wondering if anyone could give me some tips. I will have pictures of the room up a later.
Answer
Since you have a dedicated room to work with, you have some considerations before selecting equipment. The difference between a good theater and an amazing theater is 50% room and 50% equipment.
Decisions to make:
1. Sound proofing. If the room is big enough you can build a room within your room by staggering new studwalls, floor and ceiling and placing special material between the walls. Floors are suspended much like motor mounts in a car.
2. Splaying the side walls. If you build an inner-room you should make the side walls unparallel. A 20 foot deep room should be two feet wider at the back as a minimum.
3. Breaking up the ceiling. Whether you build an inner room or not, you should change the shape of the ceiling from flat to? I like to build a lattice framework that looks like the swells of a wave from below, and then have it drywalled, but there are endless possibilities here. My curved ceiling hangs from the actual ceiling and doesn't extend to the walls in any direction. This allows for stunning lighting designs.
4. Raised seating. If you are planning rows, you will want to pick your seat now so the proper wires can be installed for hardwire control from Crestron, AMX, etc... Best choice is to have your eyes even with the center of the screen vertically and horizontally. If you're married, you might want to split the difference and share the best seating position.
5. Before any construction begins, equipment should be chosen so the correct wiring cna be installed in the walls. I would not use 16/2 or 16/4 in a dedicated theater. That's surround family room wire. I would recommend 12 or 14 gauge non oxydizing high strand count speaker wire.
6. The most important components in any system are the speakers, the display and the remote control. Those are the items that we interface with and hence will show the best return for dollar spent. The rack full of boxes is far more forgiving than mediocre interface devices!
7. Projectors and screens are available now that will adjust to the full width of a 2.35:1 motion picture and the films can be displayed at 24 fps, just like at the theater. This is a substantial improvement over standard 16:9 fixed with 30 fps limitation. Several companies are making projectors like this now. I like Runco, Vidicron and JVC with anamorphic lenses.
8. Speakers can be hidden behind a faux front wall, even if you don't build an inner room. Side and rear speakers can be hidden in architectural detail walls. Picking speakers is far more complex than I can write about here.
9. Controlling a theater can be a nightmare or a breeze. It all depends on the control system and the programmer. Today, I would choose between Crestron, AMX or LifeWare. There are less costly, lower performance options such as RTI, Pronto, Nevo which work pretty well.
10. Separate processors and amplifiers are great but I've had good luck with high end receivers from Yamaha, Marantz and PioneerElite also, and they cost less money. Depending on the rest of your theater, you might even be able to use Marantz's lower end line, Denon.
11. Cables don't have to be the very best, but don't buy the bargain basement stuff either. I use Ethereal for lower cost installations and Tributaries in nicer rooms.
12. Regardless of the theater you design, hire a professional for room accoustics, sound calibration and display calibration to SMPTE standards. An ISF certified tech is adequate for display, HAA certifed tech is okay and afforable for accoustics and a THX level 2 tech will be qualified to calibrate the audio. NOTE: Room accoustics costs the most, and is the most valuable!
Since you have a dedicated room to work with, you have some considerations before selecting equipment. The difference between a good theater and an amazing theater is 50% room and 50% equipment.
Decisions to make:
1. Sound proofing. If the room is big enough you can build a room within your room by staggering new studwalls, floor and ceiling and placing special material between the walls. Floors are suspended much like motor mounts in a car.
2. Splaying the side walls. If you build an inner-room you should make the side walls unparallel. A 20 foot deep room should be two feet wider at the back as a minimum.
3. Breaking up the ceiling. Whether you build an inner room or not, you should change the shape of the ceiling from flat to? I like to build a lattice framework that looks like the swells of a wave from below, and then have it drywalled, but there are endless possibilities here. My curved ceiling hangs from the actual ceiling and doesn't extend to the walls in any direction. This allows for stunning lighting designs.
4. Raised seating. If you are planning rows, you will want to pick your seat now so the proper wires can be installed for hardwire control from Crestron, AMX, etc... Best choice is to have your eyes even with the center of the screen vertically and horizontally. If you're married, you might want to split the difference and share the best seating position.
5. Before any construction begins, equipment should be chosen so the correct wiring cna be installed in the walls. I would not use 16/2 or 16/4 in a dedicated theater. That's surround family room wire. I would recommend 12 or 14 gauge non oxydizing high strand count speaker wire.
6. The most important components in any system are the speakers, the display and the remote control. Those are the items that we interface with and hence will show the best return for dollar spent. The rack full of boxes is far more forgiving than mediocre interface devices!
7. Projectors and screens are available now that will adjust to the full width of a 2.35:1 motion picture and the films can be displayed at 24 fps, just like at the theater. This is a substantial improvement over standard 16:9 fixed with 30 fps limitation. Several companies are making projectors like this now. I like Runco, Vidicron and JVC with anamorphic lenses.
8. Speakers can be hidden behind a faux front wall, even if you don't build an inner room. Side and rear speakers can be hidden in architectural detail walls. Picking speakers is far more complex than I can write about here.
9. Controlling a theater can be a nightmare or a breeze. It all depends on the control system and the programmer. Today, I would choose between Crestron, AMX or LifeWare. There are less costly, lower performance options such as RTI, Pronto, Nevo which work pretty well.
10. Separate processors and amplifiers are great but I've had good luck with high end receivers from Yamaha, Marantz and PioneerElite also, and they cost less money. Depending on the rest of your theater, you might even be able to use Marantz's lower end line, Denon.
11. Cables don't have to be the very best, but don't buy the bargain basement stuff either. I use Ethereal for lower cost installations and Tributaries in nicer rooms.
12. Regardless of the theater you design, hire a professional for room accoustics, sound calibration and display calibration to SMPTE standards. An ISF certified tech is adequate for display, HAA certifed tech is okay and afforable for accoustics and a THX level 2 tech will be qualified to calibrate the audio. NOTE: Room accoustics costs the most, and is the most valuable!
car sub on home theater?
Greg
I have a pioneer home theater which came with a small 6" sub.
I have a really nice Dyne 10" 400watt sub thats 4ohm. The pioneer reciever pushes 150watts into 8ohms. Can I just hook up to of the dynexes in series to equal 8ohms, is this safe?
please, i need help
doesnt two 4ohm speakers hook up in series equal 8ohms?
Answer
Hooking them up in series will give you the 8 ohm load, and they will work fine. You probably won't get the sound you are hoping for though. The car environment will boost the lower frequencies, so car subwoofers are designed to compensate for this. In your home theater you will get poor response anything below 40-50 hz. Real home theater subwoofers are designed to produce the lower frequencies. You can still safely hook it up to try it out.
Hooking them up in series will give you the 8 ohm load, and they will work fine. You probably won't get the sound you are hoping for though. The car environment will boost the lower frequencies, so car subwoofers are designed to compensate for this. In your home theater you will get poor response anything below 40-50 hz. Real home theater subwoofers are designed to produce the lower frequencies. You can still safely hook it up to try it out.
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