Ben C
Placement of DLP projector, screen, and audio equipment
Answer
See the responses to a related question (First link) since it provides an excellent site on HT design (and also projectors, screens, etc). I've also included links below re speaker setup (including one on subwoofer setup), screen distance and height calculation and projector throw distance calculator. Collectively these links provide most of what you need.
You may be designing a dedicated HT or simply fitting into an existing room. If the latter, read on. If the former, much of the following may not apply.
If you want to take on a true HT project (and it can be rewarding), you will have to read extensively and decide answers to many questions.
I designed my own theatre and found that almost everything interrelates.
For example, I had to know where and how many people would be accommodated to know where the projector would be (I wanted it shelf mounted not over the prime seating position). This defined distance to the screen, which eliminated some projectors. It also dictated screen size and placement (See distance calculator link). I wanted the electronics at the back of the room, but this meant the remotes had to be able to control the equipment by bouncing the signal off the screen (not all remotes have the range). In general, you will save money if you shelf mount the projector (shorter cables, no projector mount), but this requires a projector that has suitable flexibility of placement. I knew I wanted a light controlled room, but you may not, in which case your projector brightness requirements may differ from mine.
Some other things to consider, include:
- what type of home theatre and where (a dedicated room is different than fitting into a living or family room)?
- aesthetics (e.g. finish, wall and ceiling colour, seating style, extras)
- speaker placement to define wiring. How many? Where will the subwoofer be?
- Lighting? Electrical outlets?
- ventilation (heat and A/C vents, cold air return)?
- cable runs for satellite or cable (my HD PVR requires two leads for dual tuners plus a third to a second TV elsewhere in the house).
- computer connections (LAN or WiFi)?.
- acoustics, both containing the sound (soundproofing) and optimizing it (you will need carpeting, acoustic baffles, etc)?
- seating? Number, location, sight lines / angle to screen of outside seats?
- type (DIY, fixed, electric, manual, etc), material, shape and size of screen?
- media and equipment storage?
So ... quite a list (and I probably forgot a few!). And, as stated, almost every decision relates to others.
Some suggestions that worked for me:
- consider the room first in terms of location, size and expected seating
- decide on projector and equipment placement
- develop a short list of projectors that will "fit"
- decide on the screen to fit the room and projector.
On the last point I eventually built my own screen following a process defined on the AVS forum DIY screen forum. It cost me about $50, and it worked out so well I may never buy a screen. But this required planning as to when I did the install.
I shelf mounted my projector on a back wall, but inverted to accommodate the lack of lens shift. This meant I had to make my own adapter.
Hope this all helps. Good luck!
See the responses to a related question (First link) since it provides an excellent site on HT design (and also projectors, screens, etc). I've also included links below re speaker setup (including one on subwoofer setup), screen distance and height calculation and projector throw distance calculator. Collectively these links provide most of what you need.
You may be designing a dedicated HT or simply fitting into an existing room. If the latter, read on. If the former, much of the following may not apply.
If you want to take on a true HT project (and it can be rewarding), you will have to read extensively and decide answers to many questions.
I designed my own theatre and found that almost everything interrelates.
For example, I had to know where and how many people would be accommodated to know where the projector would be (I wanted it shelf mounted not over the prime seating position). This defined distance to the screen, which eliminated some projectors. It also dictated screen size and placement (See distance calculator link). I wanted the electronics at the back of the room, but this meant the remotes had to be able to control the equipment by bouncing the signal off the screen (not all remotes have the range). In general, you will save money if you shelf mount the projector (shorter cables, no projector mount), but this requires a projector that has suitable flexibility of placement. I knew I wanted a light controlled room, but you may not, in which case your projector brightness requirements may differ from mine.
Some other things to consider, include:
- what type of home theatre and where (a dedicated room is different than fitting into a living or family room)?
- aesthetics (e.g. finish, wall and ceiling colour, seating style, extras)
- speaker placement to define wiring. How many? Where will the subwoofer be?
- Lighting? Electrical outlets?
- ventilation (heat and A/C vents, cold air return)?
- cable runs for satellite or cable (my HD PVR requires two leads for dual tuners plus a third to a second TV elsewhere in the house).
- computer connections (LAN or WiFi)?.
- acoustics, both containing the sound (soundproofing) and optimizing it (you will need carpeting, acoustic baffles, etc)?
- seating? Number, location, sight lines / angle to screen of outside seats?
- type (DIY, fixed, electric, manual, etc), material, shape and size of screen?
- media and equipment storage?
So ... quite a list (and I probably forgot a few!). And, as stated, almost every decision relates to others.
Some suggestions that worked for me:
- consider the room first in terms of location, size and expected seating
- decide on projector and equipment placement
- develop a short list of projectors that will "fit"
- decide on the screen to fit the room and projector.
On the last point I eventually built my own screen following a process defined on the AVS forum DIY screen forum. It cost me about $50, and it worked out so well I may never buy a screen. But this required planning as to when I did the install.
I shelf mounted my projector on a back wall, but inverted to accommodate the lack of lens shift. This meant I had to make my own adapter.
Hope this all helps. Good luck!
Home theater with less watts?
haris
Hey sorry for vague question statement
So yeah here is the description guys
Ihave a samsung ht q20 home theater and it has low output watts nd i have it on the market nd ppl keep askin the watts ............ofcourse its a drwback so i wish not to tell thm tht this is a problem ...first also explain to me the functions of watts thn tell me how to explain to thm tht it aint a real problm even if it it
Answer
I would explain to them (and its true) is wattage isn't everything. First its quality of power over quantity of power. Some of the best sounding amplifiers are low wattage design's. Second Its the efficiency of the speaker, the size of the room and how loud you need it to play that determines the amount of power you ultimately need. You can explain to them and show them with the numbers how loud the system will play.
Examples and just modify the numbers for the given efficiency of the speakers and how much power you have. Use the same math for the efficiency of your speakers, and how much power your receiver actually puts out.
Every speaker that double its loudness (every 3db is double the loudness) the amplifier will need to double its output to give you the 3db in loudness.
For example:
A speaker with 90db efficiency (rated at 1watt one meter)
90db - 1watt of power
93db - 2 watts
96db- 4 watts
99db- 8watts
102db-16 watts
105db-32 watts
108db-64watts
110db-128watts
113db-256 watts
As you can see if you have efficient speakers you really don't need that much power to get to a reasonably loud volume. 120db is extremely loud, as loud as anyone would really ever play music. Its when you have speakers that are not very efficient that you need much more power.
Second amplifier power is very similar:
Example:
50 watt amplifier is putting out 50 watts at 8ohms, and will put out more as impedance drops (hopefully lol, the ideal amplifier will come close to doubling its rated output as impedance drops)
8 ohms 50watts, 4 ohms- 100watts, 2 ohms 200watts, 1 ohms -400 watts (not many amplifiers can drive a 1 ohm load, only the very best and expensive amplifiers can drive 1 ohm loads)
Most average amplifiers do not double there rated power but the better ones will come close.
Sell them on the fact that power is not everything, its quality of power, and that if your speakers are efficient tell them that they do not require much power to get to a reasonably loud volume.
And for that your also telling the truth
Kevin
35 years hi-end audio video specialist
I would explain to them (and its true) is wattage isn't everything. First its quality of power over quantity of power. Some of the best sounding amplifiers are low wattage design's. Second Its the efficiency of the speaker, the size of the room and how loud you need it to play that determines the amount of power you ultimately need. You can explain to them and show them with the numbers how loud the system will play.
Examples and just modify the numbers for the given efficiency of the speakers and how much power you have. Use the same math for the efficiency of your speakers, and how much power your receiver actually puts out.
Every speaker that double its loudness (every 3db is double the loudness) the amplifier will need to double its output to give you the 3db in loudness.
For example:
A speaker with 90db efficiency (rated at 1watt one meter)
90db - 1watt of power
93db - 2 watts
96db- 4 watts
99db- 8watts
102db-16 watts
105db-32 watts
108db-64watts
110db-128watts
113db-256 watts
As you can see if you have efficient speakers you really don't need that much power to get to a reasonably loud volume. 120db is extremely loud, as loud as anyone would really ever play music. Its when you have speakers that are not very efficient that you need much more power.
Second amplifier power is very similar:
Example:
50 watt amplifier is putting out 50 watts at 8ohms, and will put out more as impedance drops (hopefully lol, the ideal amplifier will come close to doubling its rated output as impedance drops)
8 ohms 50watts, 4 ohms- 100watts, 2 ohms 200watts, 1 ohms -400 watts (not many amplifiers can drive a 1 ohm load, only the very best and expensive amplifiers can drive 1 ohm loads)
Most average amplifiers do not double there rated power but the better ones will come close.
Sell them on the fact that power is not everything, its quality of power, and that if your speakers are efficient tell them that they do not require much power to get to a reasonably loud volume.
And for that your also telling the truth
Kevin
35 years hi-end audio video specialist
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