home theater design calculator image
Ben C
Placement of DLP projector, screen, and audio equipment
Answer
See the responses to a related question (First link) since it provides an excellent site on HT design (and also projectors, screens, etc). I've also included links below re speaker setup (including one on subwoofer setup), screen distance and height calculation and projector throw distance calculator. Collectively these links provide most of what you need.
You may be designing a dedicated HT or simply fitting into an existing room. If the latter, read on. If the former, much of the following may not apply.
If you want to take on a true HT project (and it can be rewarding), you will have to read extensively and decide answers to many questions.
I designed my own theatre and found that almost everything interrelates.
For example, I had to know where and how many people would be accommodated to know where the projector would be (I wanted it shelf mounted not over the prime seating position). This defined distance to the screen, which eliminated some projectors. It also dictated screen size and placement (See distance calculator link). I wanted the electronics at the back of the room, but this meant the remotes had to be able to control the equipment by bouncing the signal off the screen (not all remotes have the range). In general, you will save money if you shelf mount the projector (shorter cables, no projector mount), but this requires a projector that has suitable flexibility of placement. I knew I wanted a light controlled room, but you may not, in which case your projector brightness requirements may differ from mine.
Some other things to consider, include:
- what type of home theatre and where (a dedicated room is different than fitting into a living or family room)?
- aesthetics (e.g. finish, wall and ceiling colour, seating style, extras)
- speaker placement to define wiring. How many? Where will the subwoofer be?
- Lighting? Electrical outlets?
- ventilation (heat and A/C vents, cold air return)?
- cable runs for satellite or cable (my HD PVR requires two leads for dual tuners plus a third to a second TV elsewhere in the house).
- computer connections (LAN or WiFi)?.
- acoustics, both containing the sound (soundproofing) and optimizing it (you will need carpeting, acoustic baffles, etc)?
- seating? Number, location, sight lines / angle to screen of outside seats?
- type (DIY, fixed, electric, manual, etc), material, shape and size of screen?
- media and equipment storage?
So ... quite a list (and I probably forgot a few!). And, as stated, almost every decision relates to others.
Some suggestions that worked for me:
- consider the room first in terms of location, size and expected seating
- decide on projector and equipment placement
- develop a short list of projectors that will "fit"
- decide on the screen to fit the room and projector.
On the last point I eventually built my own screen following a process defined on the AVS forum DIY screen forum. It cost me about $50, and it worked out so well I may never buy a screen. But this required planning as to when I did the install.
I shelf mounted my projector on a back wall, but inverted to accommodate the lack of lens shift. This meant I had to make my own adapter.
Hope this all helps. Good luck!
See the responses to a related question (First link) since it provides an excellent site on HT design (and also projectors, screens, etc). I've also included links below re speaker setup (including one on subwoofer setup), screen distance and height calculation and projector throw distance calculator. Collectively these links provide most of what you need.
You may be designing a dedicated HT or simply fitting into an existing room. If the latter, read on. If the former, much of the following may not apply.
If you want to take on a true HT project (and it can be rewarding), you will have to read extensively and decide answers to many questions.
I designed my own theatre and found that almost everything interrelates.
For example, I had to know where and how many people would be accommodated to know where the projector would be (I wanted it shelf mounted not over the prime seating position). This defined distance to the screen, which eliminated some projectors. It also dictated screen size and placement (See distance calculator link). I wanted the electronics at the back of the room, but this meant the remotes had to be able to control the equipment by bouncing the signal off the screen (not all remotes have the range). In general, you will save money if you shelf mount the projector (shorter cables, no projector mount), but this requires a projector that has suitable flexibility of placement. I knew I wanted a light controlled room, but you may not, in which case your projector brightness requirements may differ from mine.
Some other things to consider, include:
- what type of home theatre and where (a dedicated room is different than fitting into a living or family room)?
- aesthetics (e.g. finish, wall and ceiling colour, seating style, extras)
- speaker placement to define wiring. How many? Where will the subwoofer be?
- Lighting? Electrical outlets?
- ventilation (heat and A/C vents, cold air return)?
- cable runs for satellite or cable (my HD PVR requires two leads for dual tuners plus a third to a second TV elsewhere in the house).
- computer connections (LAN or WiFi)?.
- acoustics, both containing the sound (soundproofing) and optimizing it (you will need carpeting, acoustic baffles, etc)?
- seating? Number, location, sight lines / angle to screen of outside seats?
- type (DIY, fixed, electric, manual, etc), material, shape and size of screen?
- media and equipment storage?
So ... quite a list (and I probably forgot a few!). And, as stated, almost every decision relates to others.
Some suggestions that worked for me:
- consider the room first in terms of location, size and expected seating
- decide on projector and equipment placement
- develop a short list of projectors that will "fit"
- decide on the screen to fit the room and projector.
On the last point I eventually built my own screen following a process defined on the AVS forum DIY screen forum. It cost me about $50, and it worked out so well I may never buy a screen. But this required planning as to when I did the install.
I shelf mounted my projector on a back wall, but inverted to accommodate the lack of lens shift. This meant I had to make my own adapter.
Hope this all helps. Good luck!
Multimeter says 4.5 OHMs on my subwoofer how many ohms should i consider it?
David
Replacing my home theater sub
300 watts max
one more question ... what sub should i replace it with
Answer
Test: Is your multimeter adjusted properly? If you short your multimeter's terminals is your reading "0"?
If yes, then I would consider your sub as a 4 Ohm unit if the reading is in the region of 3.5 to 4.5 Ohms.
If no, then I would suggest adjusting your multimeter or changing battery or just subtracting the shorting value from the 4.5 Ohm value to get the correct measurement.
Replacing the sub depends on what you need to improve in systems performance.
I'd say that you need to measure your box volume (by internal dimensions), find the parameters (Fs, Vas, Qts) of the suitable speakers available in your territory and use below tool to see which of these will have the best response for your conditions.
http://www.linearteam.dk/default.aspx?pageid=newdriver
also an alternative tool is
http://www.mmsa.org.uk/guides/car_audio/subwoofer_box_design_calculator.html
Test: Is your multimeter adjusted properly? If you short your multimeter's terminals is your reading "0"?
If yes, then I would consider your sub as a 4 Ohm unit if the reading is in the region of 3.5 to 4.5 Ohms.
If no, then I would suggest adjusting your multimeter or changing battery or just subtracting the shorting value from the 4.5 Ohm value to get the correct measurement.
Replacing the sub depends on what you need to improve in systems performance.
I'd say that you need to measure your box volume (by internal dimensions), find the parameters (Fs, Vas, Qts) of the suitable speakers available in your territory and use below tool to see which of these will have the best response for your conditions.
http://www.linearteam.dk/default.aspx?pageid=newdriver
also an alternative tool is
http://www.mmsa.org.uk/guides/car_audio/subwoofer_box_design_calculator.html
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