joel
My biggest concern is that the woofer, not designed for a car, could be rattled too much and end up breaking. Also what would the sound be like? Is there a significant difference between a woofer built for a home theater and one built for a car?
Answer
There are some that could be considereable, like the JBL northridge 4-way bass reflex design, they're about $1,200 pair. The problem you run into with transferring to a car is #1. Impedance #2. look at the rubber surround of a car speaker as opposed to the house, it's probably not going to have a very high excursion, therfore ineffective for it's application in a vehicle. Also, these home speakers are rated at greater effeciencies, higher loads with more resistance. The construction is typically not a vented/air cooled magnet design intended to protect the voice coils from overheating simply because it's not necessary at home. #3. You have to figure air space requirments as well. #4. I would say that the closest mix match you could get would be using a PA speaker in a home, but not a home in a car, there are too many variables that you have to consider.
There are some that could be considereable, like the JBL northridge 4-way bass reflex design, they're about $1,200 pair. The problem you run into with transferring to a car is #1. Impedance #2. look at the rubber surround of a car speaker as opposed to the house, it's probably not going to have a very high excursion, therfore ineffective for it's application in a vehicle. Also, these home speakers are rated at greater effeciencies, higher loads with more resistance. The construction is typically not a vented/air cooled magnet design intended to protect the voice coils from overheating simply because it's not necessary at home. #3. You have to figure air space requirments as well. #4. I would say that the closest mix match you could get would be using a PA speaker in a home, but not a home in a car, there are too many variables that you have to consider.
Home Theater Sound Proofing?
Paul H
We are in the process of building a new home and it will include a "theater" room. I'm trying to figure out the best and most economical way to sound-proof the room, as it will be in the basement, below our bedroom. I've considered accoustical drop ceiling tiles, staggered 2X4 walls for the interior walls, leaving a 1" gap between the foundation wall and 2X4 wall and of course using insulation. What would be the best insulation to use and are there any other ideas I should consider? I'm already pushing the wallet on the home itself so I need some economical solutions.
Answer
It depends how you define sound proofing. The other answers will help with midrange and treble, but do almost nothing for bass ... the real issue in my view.
I faced this same issue when I built a home theatre in my basement and I read a lot and came to understand several key points:
- bass is only controlled by a combination of mass (read heavy material like doube drywall) and damping/decoupling (preventing the vibrations from travelling through a wall or ceiling/floor to the other side;
- the room must be sealed (except for air ducts which must be baffled) to prevent treble from getting through;
- sound-proofing efforts frequently fail due to either small openings left unplugged (treble) or "coupling" between surfaces by wrongly placed nails or screws ... so careful construction is essential.
I came across a product that, while not exactly cheap, works very well to decouple sound transmission. The so called Resilient Sound Isolation Clips (RSIC, See link for pictures, etc). They hold metal furring channels to which one (or for greater sound reduction two) layers of drywall are attached. They introduce an elastomer between the drywall and underlying structural member (e.g. stud, joist) and when combined with insulation in the cavity and a non-drying elastomeric caulking around edges of the drywall provide very effective "sound proofing" by decoupling the inner and outer surface and damping resonation in the cavity bewteen
I used them in the ceiling (with one layer of 1/2" drywall), but chose to use staggered studs (with the interior filled with heavyweight fiberglass insulation designed for sound applications) for the walls. I chose this approach because it gives equivalent resulys but is less expensive than RSICs since I was doing the work myself. (Note: If I had contracted it I would have specified RSICs for walls and ceiling since the RSICs lower labour costs). I also chose to use a prehung exterior door for the HT (there is a guest bedroom next door) itself since provides much better sound baffling
I'm quite satisfied with the results ... despite my use of only a single layer of drywall and no special efforts to baffle ductwork. Even when the sound is quite loud in the theatre it is not annoying upstairs or in the bedroom next door, and most important to me bass is well controlled.
Check out the specs and ratings for various construction options using RSICs on their website. They provide a wealth of useful information.
One final note, RSICs would also be a good choice for retrofitting an existing wall / room since they would obviate the need to pull existing walls apart.
Hope this helps.
Source(s):
http://www.pac-intl.com/
It depends how you define sound proofing. The other answers will help with midrange and treble, but do almost nothing for bass ... the real issue in my view.
I faced this same issue when I built a home theatre in my basement and I read a lot and came to understand several key points:
- bass is only controlled by a combination of mass (read heavy material like doube drywall) and damping/decoupling (preventing the vibrations from travelling through a wall or ceiling/floor to the other side;
- the room must be sealed (except for air ducts which must be baffled) to prevent treble from getting through;
- sound-proofing efforts frequently fail due to either small openings left unplugged (treble) or "coupling" between surfaces by wrongly placed nails or screws ... so careful construction is essential.
I came across a product that, while not exactly cheap, works very well to decouple sound transmission. The so called Resilient Sound Isolation Clips (RSIC, See link for pictures, etc). They hold metal furring channels to which one (or for greater sound reduction two) layers of drywall are attached. They introduce an elastomer between the drywall and underlying structural member (e.g. stud, joist) and when combined with insulation in the cavity and a non-drying elastomeric caulking around edges of the drywall provide very effective "sound proofing" by decoupling the inner and outer surface and damping resonation in the cavity bewteen
I used them in the ceiling (with one layer of 1/2" drywall), but chose to use staggered studs (with the interior filled with heavyweight fiberglass insulation designed for sound applications) for the walls. I chose this approach because it gives equivalent resulys but is less expensive than RSICs since I was doing the work myself. (Note: If I had contracted it I would have specified RSICs for walls and ceiling since the RSICs lower labour costs). I also chose to use a prehung exterior door for the HT (there is a guest bedroom next door) itself since provides much better sound baffling
I'm quite satisfied with the results ... despite my use of only a single layer of drywall and no special efforts to baffle ductwork. Even when the sound is quite loud in the theatre it is not annoying upstairs or in the bedroom next door, and most important to me bass is well controlled.
Check out the specs and ratings for various construction options using RSICs on their website. They provide a wealth of useful information.
One final note, RSICs would also be a good choice for retrofitting an existing wall / room since they would obviate the need to pull existing walls apart.
Hope this helps.
Source(s):
http://www.pac-intl.com/
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