NNZ1991
I am going to design a theater for the house we just bought but and having a little trouble deciding. I was wondering if anyone could give me some tips. I will have pictures of the room up a later.
Answer
Since you have a dedicated room to work with, you have some considerations before selecting equipment. The difference between a good theater and an amazing theater is 50% room and 50% equipment.
Decisions to make:
1. Sound proofing. If the room is big enough you can build a room within your room by staggering new studwalls, floor and ceiling and placing special material between the walls. Floors are suspended much like motor mounts in a car.
2. Splaying the side walls. If you build an inner-room you should make the side walls unparallel. A 20 foot deep room should be two feet wider at the back as a minimum.
3. Breaking up the ceiling. Whether you build an inner room or not, you should change the shape of the ceiling from flat to? I like to build a lattice framework that looks like the swells of a wave from below, and then have it drywalled, but there are endless possibilities here. My curved ceiling hangs from the actual ceiling and doesn't extend to the walls in any direction. This allows for stunning lighting designs.
4. Raised seating. If you are planning rows, you will want to pick your seat now so the proper wires can be installed for hardwire control from Crestron, AMX, etc... Best choice is to have your eyes even with the center of the screen vertically and horizontally. If you're married, you might want to split the difference and share the best seating position.
5. Before any construction begins, equipment should be chosen so the correct wiring cna be installed in the walls. I would not use 16/2 or 16/4 in a dedicated theater. That's surround family room wire. I would recommend 12 or 14 gauge non oxydizing high strand count speaker wire.
6. The most important components in any system are the speakers, the display and the remote control. Those are the items that we interface with and hence will show the best return for dollar spent. The rack full of boxes is far more forgiving than mediocre interface devices!
7. Projectors and screens are available now that will adjust to the full width of a 2.35:1 motion picture and the films can be displayed at 24 fps, just like at the theater. This is a substantial improvement over standard 16:9 fixed with 30 fps limitation. Several companies are making projectors like this now. I like Runco, Vidicron and JVC with anamorphic lenses.
8. Speakers can be hidden behind a faux front wall, even if you don't build an inner room. Side and rear speakers can be hidden in architectural detail walls. Picking speakers is far more complex than I can write about here.
9. Controlling a theater can be a nightmare or a breeze. It all depends on the control system and the programmer. Today, I would choose between Crestron, AMX or LifeWare. There are less costly, lower performance options such as RTI, Pronto, Nevo which work pretty well.
10. Separate processors and amplifiers are great but I've had good luck with high end receivers from Yamaha, Marantz and PioneerElite also, and they cost less money. Depending on the rest of your theater, you might even be able to use Marantz's lower end line, Denon.
11. Cables don't have to be the very best, but don't buy the bargain basement stuff either. I use Ethereal for lower cost installations and Tributaries in nicer rooms.
12. Regardless of the theater you design, hire a professional for room accoustics, sound calibration and display calibration to SMPTE standards. An ISF certified tech is adequate for display, HAA certifed tech is okay and afforable for accoustics and a THX level 2 tech will be qualified to calibrate the audio. NOTE: Room accoustics costs the most, and is the most valuable!
Since you have a dedicated room to work with, you have some considerations before selecting equipment. The difference between a good theater and an amazing theater is 50% room and 50% equipment.
Decisions to make:
1. Sound proofing. If the room is big enough you can build a room within your room by staggering new studwalls, floor and ceiling and placing special material between the walls. Floors are suspended much like motor mounts in a car.
2. Splaying the side walls. If you build an inner-room you should make the side walls unparallel. A 20 foot deep room should be two feet wider at the back as a minimum.
3. Breaking up the ceiling. Whether you build an inner room or not, you should change the shape of the ceiling from flat to? I like to build a lattice framework that looks like the swells of a wave from below, and then have it drywalled, but there are endless possibilities here. My curved ceiling hangs from the actual ceiling and doesn't extend to the walls in any direction. This allows for stunning lighting designs.
4. Raised seating. If you are planning rows, you will want to pick your seat now so the proper wires can be installed for hardwire control from Crestron, AMX, etc... Best choice is to have your eyes even with the center of the screen vertically and horizontally. If you're married, you might want to split the difference and share the best seating position.
5. Before any construction begins, equipment should be chosen so the correct wiring cna be installed in the walls. I would not use 16/2 or 16/4 in a dedicated theater. That's surround family room wire. I would recommend 12 or 14 gauge non oxydizing high strand count speaker wire.
6. The most important components in any system are the speakers, the display and the remote control. Those are the items that we interface with and hence will show the best return for dollar spent. The rack full of boxes is far more forgiving than mediocre interface devices!
7. Projectors and screens are available now that will adjust to the full width of a 2.35:1 motion picture and the films can be displayed at 24 fps, just like at the theater. This is a substantial improvement over standard 16:9 fixed with 30 fps limitation. Several companies are making projectors like this now. I like Runco, Vidicron and JVC with anamorphic lenses.
8. Speakers can be hidden behind a faux front wall, even if you don't build an inner room. Side and rear speakers can be hidden in architectural detail walls. Picking speakers is far more complex than I can write about here.
9. Controlling a theater can be a nightmare or a breeze. It all depends on the control system and the programmer. Today, I would choose between Crestron, AMX or LifeWare. There are less costly, lower performance options such as RTI, Pronto, Nevo which work pretty well.
10. Separate processors and amplifiers are great but I've had good luck with high end receivers from Yamaha, Marantz and PioneerElite also, and they cost less money. Depending on the rest of your theater, you might even be able to use Marantz's lower end line, Denon.
11. Cables don't have to be the very best, but don't buy the bargain basement stuff either. I use Ethereal for lower cost installations and Tributaries in nicer rooms.
12. Regardless of the theater you design, hire a professional for room accoustics, sound calibration and display calibration to SMPTE standards. An ISF certified tech is adequate for display, HAA certifed tech is okay and afforable for accoustics and a THX level 2 tech will be qualified to calibrate the audio. NOTE: Room accoustics costs the most, and is the most valuable!
Home theater install costs?
moose_1031
I'm planning on having a home theater installed in my home.
Room is roughly 15x15 in a house that is over 100yrs old.
Can someone provide me with some insight as to how pricing is generally structured?
.....What are average labor/install costs?
.....Will my equipment be more expensive if I buy it from the installing company?
I didn't really have a budget in mind, I'm simply looking for information on how the pricing is normally broken down in this business.
Many Thanks
FYI... thanks for all your DIY hints.
I am planning on this being a custom install,$15,000 to $ 20,000
I don't want this to be a hobbiest room.
Answer
I'm not sure about pricing in Lancaster Penn. but it shouldn't be too different than Southern California and maybe a little cheaper. Not a lot cheaper though. The only difference in cost of living is real estate.
First of all, I wouldn't choose a big box co. to set up your installation. It's like going to Las Vegas and spinning the big wheel. You might get good installers and you might get idiots. Design and installation companies tend to be more knowledgable and their staffs tend to be better trained.
If you want the most bang for your buck, regardless of budjet, look for companies with these certifications: ISF for video calibration, HAA for room acoustics and THX for equipment selection and speaker placement. It's good to hire someone with an electrical contractor available too. Some might say that CEDIA certification is needed. I'm going to say it's helpful, particularly with younger, less experienced guys, but not necessary.
Choose a company that has been in business for quite some time and can show you jobs they've completed. Talk to their previous clients if possible. This has become an exciting and profitable business for everyone, including the kid that just got fired from the cable company, and they are all suddenly "home theater experts." This list includes electricians, alarm guys, phone techs, computer techs, etc. It's okay to ask what they used to do for a living, or what other business they are currently in. Expect a company with real experience to ask you a lot of questions. They cannot design for you unless they know you.
Most quality design/install firms will be members of one or more buying groups. By purchasing with other companies, as many as 1700 in one group, they can get the pricing needed to be competitive. Big box stores are stuck with the brands they sell, so obviously those brands are going to be "the best." Independents generally have everything available. Since the custom world is structured so no one has to maintain inventory, they can choose based on your wants, needs and desires without worrying about moving dead inventory sitting in their back room. If you want to price compare on a company's equipment recommendations, then offer to pay them for their design time. A proper design can take several hours so by paying you are ethically free to shop for and use the components they recommeded in their design.
Out here labor rates are tiered. Expect to pay 75/hour for a technician, 40 - 55/hour for a qualified helper and 120/hour for programming and calibration. Plaster repair is usually an outside cost so be sure to ask up front. Expect your costs for labor to total somewhere between $4000 and $5000.
Here's the thing: With a 20k budjet, you will get a media room that looks and sounds dramatically better by spending 15k on equipment and 5k on design / installation / acoustics / calibration than if you spent 18k on equipment and 2k on installation with a slam-and-jam installation company.
Hope this helps. Good luck and enjoy!
I'm not sure about pricing in Lancaster Penn. but it shouldn't be too different than Southern California and maybe a little cheaper. Not a lot cheaper though. The only difference in cost of living is real estate.
First of all, I wouldn't choose a big box co. to set up your installation. It's like going to Las Vegas and spinning the big wheel. You might get good installers and you might get idiots. Design and installation companies tend to be more knowledgable and their staffs tend to be better trained.
If you want the most bang for your buck, regardless of budjet, look for companies with these certifications: ISF for video calibration, HAA for room acoustics and THX for equipment selection and speaker placement. It's good to hire someone with an electrical contractor available too. Some might say that CEDIA certification is needed. I'm going to say it's helpful, particularly with younger, less experienced guys, but not necessary.
Choose a company that has been in business for quite some time and can show you jobs they've completed. Talk to their previous clients if possible. This has become an exciting and profitable business for everyone, including the kid that just got fired from the cable company, and they are all suddenly "home theater experts." This list includes electricians, alarm guys, phone techs, computer techs, etc. It's okay to ask what they used to do for a living, or what other business they are currently in. Expect a company with real experience to ask you a lot of questions. They cannot design for you unless they know you.
Most quality design/install firms will be members of one or more buying groups. By purchasing with other companies, as many as 1700 in one group, they can get the pricing needed to be competitive. Big box stores are stuck with the brands they sell, so obviously those brands are going to be "the best." Independents generally have everything available. Since the custom world is structured so no one has to maintain inventory, they can choose based on your wants, needs and desires without worrying about moving dead inventory sitting in their back room. If you want to price compare on a company's equipment recommendations, then offer to pay them for their design time. A proper design can take several hours so by paying you are ethically free to shop for and use the components they recommeded in their design.
Out here labor rates are tiered. Expect to pay 75/hour for a technician, 40 - 55/hour for a qualified helper and 120/hour for programming and calibration. Plaster repair is usually an outside cost so be sure to ask up front. Expect your costs for labor to total somewhere between $4000 and $5000.
Here's the thing: With a 20k budjet, you will get a media room that looks and sounds dramatically better by spending 15k on equipment and 5k on design / installation / acoustics / calibration than if you spent 18k on equipment and 2k on installation with a slam-and-jam installation company.
Hope this helps. Good luck and enjoy!
Powered by Yahoo! Answers
Tidak ada komentar:
Posting Komentar