MT I
When I'm setting up my speakers.... what's the best location....height and distance from center of room??
Answer
Every room is different but here are some general rules...
Left and Right should be placed at about 40% height. Try your initial placement of the Left and right using 1/5 distance. I.e., if the room is 20 ft wide, divide by 5 (=4) and place the speakers centered at 4' in from each side wall. 1/3 and 1/7th positions can also be used depending on the room. 1/7 positioning requires more rigid acoustics and better control of the speaker disperson to avoid reflection problems.
The center should be at the identical height to the left and right. Ideally, the center should be set back from the front plane of the left and right to achieve proper delays (use a tape measure and set the center at the same distance from the centered listening position as the left and right). If you do not have this luxury, you'll need to employ delays on the AV receiver or AV preamp to electronically make them all the same distance.
Rear surround placement height should be centered at 1/3rd the way down the wall. On an 8 ft tall ceiling, this puts them centered at approximately 2' 5/8" down. Lateral placement is strictly a function of the design of the speaker and coverage of the listening area. You want the surrounds to cover the listening area as evenly as possible. With dipole sides, they should be set even to slightly behind the head position on the row of seats (reclined if they are reclining). With monopoles, you want to look at how wide the listening area is and using what you know about the monopoles polar response (which should be in the specs), calculate up where the monopoles should be to give you the most even coverage to the seating area. If you are using a THX Ultra rated speaker system, you can normally use a THX ASA placement with good results.
Subwoofer placement is strictly a function of room nodes. Most folks who do not have the experience to run room node calculations will simply have to experiment with placement. Try the same placement as the front left and right as a starting point and then go from there.
Every room is different but here are some general rules...
Left and Right should be placed at about 40% height. Try your initial placement of the Left and right using 1/5 distance. I.e., if the room is 20 ft wide, divide by 5 (=4) and place the speakers centered at 4' in from each side wall. 1/3 and 1/7th positions can also be used depending on the room. 1/7 positioning requires more rigid acoustics and better control of the speaker disperson to avoid reflection problems.
The center should be at the identical height to the left and right. Ideally, the center should be set back from the front plane of the left and right to achieve proper delays (use a tape measure and set the center at the same distance from the centered listening position as the left and right). If you do not have this luxury, you'll need to employ delays on the AV receiver or AV preamp to electronically make them all the same distance.
Rear surround placement height should be centered at 1/3rd the way down the wall. On an 8 ft tall ceiling, this puts them centered at approximately 2' 5/8" down. Lateral placement is strictly a function of the design of the speaker and coverage of the listening area. You want the surrounds to cover the listening area as evenly as possible. With dipole sides, they should be set even to slightly behind the head position on the row of seats (reclined if they are reclining). With monopoles, you want to look at how wide the listening area is and using what you know about the monopoles polar response (which should be in the specs), calculate up where the monopoles should be to give you the most even coverage to the seating area. If you are using a THX Ultra rated speaker system, you can normally use a THX ASA placement with good results.
Subwoofer placement is strictly a function of room nodes. Most folks who do not have the experience to run room node calculations will simply have to experiment with placement. Try the same placement as the front left and right as a starting point and then go from there.
Home Theater + Designing a theater?
NNZ1991
I am going to design a theater for the house we just bought but and having a little trouble deciding. I was wondering if anyone could give me some tips. I will have pictures of the room up a later.
Answer
Since you have a dedicated room to work with, you have some considerations before selecting equipment. The difference between a good theater and an amazing theater is 50% room and 50% equipment.
Decisions to make:
1. Sound proofing. If the room is big enough you can build a room within your room by staggering new studwalls, floor and ceiling and placing special material between the walls. Floors are suspended much like motor mounts in a car.
2. Splaying the side walls. If you build an inner-room you should make the side walls unparallel. A 20 foot deep room should be two feet wider at the back as a minimum.
3. Breaking up the ceiling. Whether you build an inner room or not, you should change the shape of the ceiling from flat to? I like to build a lattice framework that looks like the swells of a wave from below, and then have it drywalled, but there are endless possibilities here. My curved ceiling hangs from the actual ceiling and doesn't extend to the walls in any direction. This allows for stunning lighting designs.
4. Raised seating. If you are planning rows, you will want to pick your seat now so the proper wires can be installed for hardwire control from Crestron, AMX, etc... Best choice is to have your eyes even with the center of the screen vertically and horizontally. If you're married, you might want to split the difference and share the best seating position.
5. Before any construction begins, equipment should be chosen so the correct wiring cna be installed in the walls. I would not use 16/2 or 16/4 in a dedicated theater. That's surround family room wire. I would recommend 12 or 14 gauge non oxydizing high strand count speaker wire.
6. The most important components in any system are the speakers, the display and the remote control. Those are the items that we interface with and hence will show the best return for dollar spent. The rack full of boxes is far more forgiving than mediocre interface devices!
7. Projectors and screens are available now that will adjust to the full width of a 2.35:1 motion picture and the films can be displayed at 24 fps, just like at the theater. This is a substantial improvement over standard 16:9 fixed with 30 fps limitation. Several companies are making projectors like this now. I like Runco, Vidicron and JVC with anamorphic lenses.
8. Speakers can be hidden behind a faux front wall, even if you don't build an inner room. Side and rear speakers can be hidden in architectural detail walls. Picking speakers is far more complex than I can write about here.
9. Controlling a theater can be a nightmare or a breeze. It all depends on the control system and the programmer. Today, I would choose between Crestron, AMX or LifeWare. There are less costly, lower performance options such as RTI, Pronto, Nevo which work pretty well.
10. Separate processors and amplifiers are great but I've had good luck with high end receivers from Yamaha, Marantz and PioneerElite also, and they cost less money. Depending on the rest of your theater, you might even be able to use Marantz's lower end line, Denon.
11. Cables don't have to be the very best, but don't buy the bargain basement stuff either. I use Ethereal for lower cost installations and Tributaries in nicer rooms.
12. Regardless of the theater you design, hire a professional for room accoustics, sound calibration and display calibration to SMPTE standards. An ISF certified tech is adequate for display, HAA certifed tech is okay and afforable for accoustics and a THX level 2 tech will be qualified to calibrate the audio. NOTE: Room accoustics costs the most, and is the most valuable!
Since you have a dedicated room to work with, you have some considerations before selecting equipment. The difference between a good theater and an amazing theater is 50% room and 50% equipment.
Decisions to make:
1. Sound proofing. If the room is big enough you can build a room within your room by staggering new studwalls, floor and ceiling and placing special material between the walls. Floors are suspended much like motor mounts in a car.
2. Splaying the side walls. If you build an inner-room you should make the side walls unparallel. A 20 foot deep room should be two feet wider at the back as a minimum.
3. Breaking up the ceiling. Whether you build an inner room or not, you should change the shape of the ceiling from flat to? I like to build a lattice framework that looks like the swells of a wave from below, and then have it drywalled, but there are endless possibilities here. My curved ceiling hangs from the actual ceiling and doesn't extend to the walls in any direction. This allows for stunning lighting designs.
4. Raised seating. If you are planning rows, you will want to pick your seat now so the proper wires can be installed for hardwire control from Crestron, AMX, etc... Best choice is to have your eyes even with the center of the screen vertically and horizontally. If you're married, you might want to split the difference and share the best seating position.
5. Before any construction begins, equipment should be chosen so the correct wiring cna be installed in the walls. I would not use 16/2 or 16/4 in a dedicated theater. That's surround family room wire. I would recommend 12 or 14 gauge non oxydizing high strand count speaker wire.
6. The most important components in any system are the speakers, the display and the remote control. Those are the items that we interface with and hence will show the best return for dollar spent. The rack full of boxes is far more forgiving than mediocre interface devices!
7. Projectors and screens are available now that will adjust to the full width of a 2.35:1 motion picture and the films can be displayed at 24 fps, just like at the theater. This is a substantial improvement over standard 16:9 fixed with 30 fps limitation. Several companies are making projectors like this now. I like Runco, Vidicron and JVC with anamorphic lenses.
8. Speakers can be hidden behind a faux front wall, even if you don't build an inner room. Side and rear speakers can be hidden in architectural detail walls. Picking speakers is far more complex than I can write about here.
9. Controlling a theater can be a nightmare or a breeze. It all depends on the control system and the programmer. Today, I would choose between Crestron, AMX or LifeWare. There are less costly, lower performance options such as RTI, Pronto, Nevo which work pretty well.
10. Separate processors and amplifiers are great but I've had good luck with high end receivers from Yamaha, Marantz and PioneerElite also, and they cost less money. Depending on the rest of your theater, you might even be able to use Marantz's lower end line, Denon.
11. Cables don't have to be the very best, but don't buy the bargain basement stuff either. I use Ethereal for lower cost installations and Tributaries in nicer rooms.
12. Regardless of the theater you design, hire a professional for room accoustics, sound calibration and display calibration to SMPTE standards. An ISF certified tech is adequate for display, HAA certifed tech is okay and afforable for accoustics and a THX level 2 tech will be qualified to calibrate the audio. NOTE: Room accoustics costs the most, and is the most valuable!
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